Wild Walks (mostly mountainous)

22-25 April 2025

There were nine in the party doing various walks over four days depending on ability. On the first day six of us climbed Crimpiau near Capel Curig, a lesser peak of 475m. On the second day eight of us climbed Moel Siabod (872m) via the craggy east ridge. On the third day, three decided to tackle Elidir Fawr (924m), one of the Welsh 3000 footers. The rest of the party did an easier walk in the beautiful Nant Francon Valley. On the last day three walked the old slate railway track from Bangor back to the bunkhouse. 

A group of seven Wild Walkers had a three-night stay at the Coetmormill bunkhouse near Bethesda in North Wales.  It was a fairly mixed group ability-wise, so there ended up being two or three parties doing different things each day.

We travelled up on the Monday in three cars and met at Capel Curig for an afternoon walk to Crimpiau, before driving to Coetmormill and settling in.  Nigel, Sheila and Dick each brought a pre-prepared main course meal for the three evenings we were there, so the rest of us had a fairly easy time just helping and washing up.

On Tuesday we drove about 15 minutes to Ogwen Cottage, and walked up to Llyn Idwal and the Devil’s Kitchen.  Some then chose a lower level route, while others continued up the stepped path through the crags and then along the top of he ridge to Y Garn.  Descent was quite slow and steep, and ended through a very narrow gorge at the bottom.

Wednesday most of us drove to Beddgelert and did a relatively low-level circuit along the valley and Llyn Dinas, over into Blaen Nanmor, and then down that valley to Nantmor.  From there we continued along a riverside path up the Pass of Aberglaslyn gorge, and finally across the water meadows back to Beddgelert.

Thursday was the departure from Coetmormill and the journey home, though some of us first took a walk along the disused railway from Bangor which served the Penrhyn slate quarries just outside Bethesda, and passes just outside the mill. 

In 2022 we began an East-to-West traverse of the Scottish Highlands, walking from Montrose to Blair Atholl. Last year the project was completed by walking from Blair Atholl to Oban. Much of the country was familiar, but not the stretch known as the Angus Glens. So this year that is where we returned, with Wild Walking friends Sheila Hogan and Dave Ashby. The 87-mile route we have just completed, spread over six-and-a-half days, runs from Dunkeld, east across the heads of the glens, then south-east to the coast at Montrose: a combination of country lanes, well-established trackways such as the Cateran Trail, farm tracks, grouse-shooting accesses, some intense climbs (one up to 850m) and trackless moorland navigation. Accommodation is scarce, its location largely dictating the route: two hostels and some small country hotels (one of which, delightfully, bade us dip into the freezer and make our own evening meal!)

Delays on the rail network meant a late start from Dunkeld, and in pouring rain. Stress levels matched the water levels in our boots. However, subsequent days were blessedly benign: gloomy at times but mainly sunny and dry. Wild moorland alternated with broad fertile glacial valleys: the glens of Isla, Prosen, Clova and Esk, all alive with birdsong (cuckoo, willow warbler, lapwing, curlew...) and lambing in full swing. The locals were keen to stop and talk; tourists are a rarity in these parts.

In late April, 2022, the spectacular devastation to the forestry of recent storms had substantially caused us to deviate from our route. Now, 2 years later, we were impeded only once, but some plantations still resembled WW1 battlefields, clearance providing much local employment. This apart, we found it astonishing that such natural beauty is so little-known.

Following our last year's trek from Montrose to Blair Atholl, our trans-Scotland (East to West) project has just been completed.

The second half started at Blair Atholl and ended at the port of Oban. This took 6 days, covering - almost the same distance as last year - 87 miles. This time I was accompanied by Roger Harrison and, for the last three days, his son Will. The route from Blair ran West through the Perthshire forests to Kinloch Rannoch and Bridge of Gaur, then North West to the Loch Ossian Youth Hostel. Next was the Rannoch Moor crossing to Kinlochleven. For this we had our one rainy day, quite appropriate for the wilderness famous for its inhospitable bleakness.

From Kinlochleven we headed for the historic Duror Bothy, believed to be the ancestral home of James of the Glens, for those familiar with the "Appin Murder" featured in Robert Louis Stevenson's Kidnapped. However, no ghosts here. Only mice.

The last day was a flat march to Port Appin and the ferry across to the island of Lismore, then walking to the other end of the island to catch another ferry to Oban.

This time of year is the best for walking in the Highlands - relatively dry and too early for the midges. The snow-flecked mountain scenery was stunning, the morning temperatures brisk but warming rapidly in the Spring sunshine.

A thoroughly satisfying and exhausting trip!

Tom Coates

It is fast becoming a ritual that after travelling from Letchworth, we meet up in Betws-y-Coed in the middle of the day and have an afternoon walk up to the monument on Llyn Elsi Reservoir. A lovely woodland walk finishing with beautiful views at the top before making our way to Coetmor Mill in Bethesda.

The following day we were naturally keen and ready for a challenge so drove down to park at Ogwen Cottage and climbed up to Bochlwyd. A beautiful Llyn on a clear day! Given the lack of visibility at that level, it hardly made sense to push on and up to the Glyders and even less to try and summit Tryfan. Accordingly we settled for simply going over Bwich Tryfan (the pass to the other side) and taking the easy Heather Terrace back. Those who recalled that route from, well err, umm, about 60 years ago, remembered it as a fast, easy, benign path. It was a tough, rocky, scarcely discernible track! Once down we had a simple 2-mile walk beside Llyn Ogwen to the cars exhausted!

On Wednesday we drove round to Pont Dolgarrog in the Conway valley and after a long steep ascent, walked back along the length of Cowlyd reservoir to the A5 just north of Capel Curig where Chris who had ‘sat the day out’ kindly picked us up and ferried our two drivers back to the cars.

On the final day we started from Capel Curig on what has previously been our “last morning” hike north towards Llyn Crafnant only this time we went right through to the very pretty pass to the next valley and the Llyn. Then over Mynydd Deulyn, turned south through lots of woodland, stopped for lunch beside the charming small Llyn Bychan in calm and quiet, only to get a call from Tom Coates to report he had summited Carnedd Dafydd in a howling wind and close to nil visibility but he had finally achieved his ambition to be there. Next time we must hope for much better conditions and the joy of walking the ridge to the others in that range. Meanwhile the big party carried on back to Capel, then rewarded themselves with a visit to the only good café in the area to indulge in their monster scones? Tea cakes? What were they called?

On the Friday whilst the majority of the group travelled home in the morning Geoff and Tom took advantage of the best weather of the week and climbed the first peak of Cefn y Capel to be rewarded with the best views of the week in every direction. A great close to the week.

Geoff Smith

Wild walker, Peter Moore achieved an amazing personal goal.

He climbed all of the 214 peaks listed in Alfred Wainwright's seven-volume Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells (1955–66).

Peter will be greatly missed by us all.

The peaks all lie within the boundary of the Lake District National Park in Cumbria, and all but one (Castle Crag) are over 1,000 feet (304.8m) in height.

Many of the Wild Walkers have joined him for some of the peaks over the years. But on the last seven, which he completed in July, Peter was accompanied by Robin, the older of his two sons.

Peter is pictured on Yewbarrow near Wasdale Head. He said: “fortunately there was a very convenient inn nearby for a celebratory drink with Robin, who had been my Sherpa and protector for 4 days and my wife Gill, who had done all the driving.”

And the celebrations continued at a recent meeting of the Wild Walkers when they presented him with a signed certificate of achievement.

Geoff Smith writes: In November five of us stayed in Coetmor Mill for four nights from a Monday to Friday.

With powerful central heating throughout, a beautifully equipped kitchen, perfect hot showers and a cosy ‘snug’ for the evenings it deserved the title of luxury bunkhouse.

Situated in the former slate quarrying village of Bethesda, just north of Llyn Ogwen, the Mill is ideally situated for all levels of walking from low level ‘walks’ to the tougher peaks although sadly the weather somewhat limited us.

We did have a reasonable day going up from Llyn Ogwen to Llyn Idwal, below the Idwal slabs where some of us had climbed when younger and fitter. On and up below the Devil’s Kitchen and on to the summit of Y Garn on the Glyders side of the valley, we were driven back from an assault on the Carneddau from the Conway valley side even before we had reached the top of Drum. The wind literally blew some of us over and discretion dictated a strategic withdrawal!

The overall summary was: it was fun, we will go again, there is so much to do in the area, but possibly in spring or earlier in autumn.

THE CAPE WRATH TRAIL

Five members of the Wild Walks Group have successfully completed the 230-mile Cape Wrath Trail through the Scottish Highlands – nearly!

Five miles short of their destination after a total of 17 days walking, the group were foiled by the rising floodwaters of a wide burn blocking their path on the last leg to Cape Wrath lighthouse. In order not to miss the only bus home, they had to turn back to Kinlochbervie.

However, none of the group, whose ages ranged from 66 to 75, has any regrets about the trip. “We hiked through the remotest parts of Britain” explains leader Nigel Carrick. “We could walk up to thirty miles through the hills without seeing a road. We are all experienced walkers and we wanted a big challenge.” 

The Group originally planned to tackle the trail in three stages and completed the first third, from Fort William to Strathcarron, in September last year. Emboldened by this success, they decided to finish it off in just one more 12-day trip this year.

The Cape Wrath Trail starts at Fort William and winds through nowhere in particular – the villages of Glenfinnan, Invershiel, Strathcarron, Kinlochewe, Oykel Bridge and Rhiconich provide the few outposts of civilisation en route. But the mountains, glens and lonely lochs are quite spectacular. In the absence of hotels and bed and breakfast places, the group stayed in simple mountain bothies, which do not have electricity or running water. Toilet facilities consist of one shovel – you go and dig a hole! Total ascent for the trail was almost 30,000 ft.

This meant the group had to carry food and stoves and survive on powder and packets for several evenings, with porridge every breakfast. However, every so often a welcoming small hotel would provide more ambitious fare, together with the chance of a much needed bath or shower.

“We drew the line at carrying tents” says Nigel, “although we met plenty of people who did carry them, including a very petite lady from Barley who was walking from Lands End to John O’Groats with a 23kg pack.”

Those who completed the whole distance were Nigel Carrick, Dave Ashby, Geoff Smith and William Armitage. Sheila Hogan, Tom Coates and Roger Harrison also went part of the way but could not spare the time to complete the whole trail.

Not all Wild Walks Group hikes are 230 miles! But they do tend to be ambitious.

If you feel like stretching your ability and fitness, come and join us!

In December an interesting presentation on the challenging Cape Wrath Trail was given at the Members' Meeting.

The presentation was supported by dramatic photography and a loaded rucksack which demonstrated the weight each member of the group carried for the whole expedition. This

was followed later in the month by a Carol concert with an open invitation to all the walking groups in the LALG. 

Kinder Scout - A group of us caught the 6:20am train from Letchworth one sunny morning in March and travelled to Edale to walk circa 12 miles north over Kinder Scout, along the tops above Ladybower Reservoir and into Hope before catching a train home. These excursions are enjoyable, ably led day breaks and this was no exception.

West Wales - A four-day scenic trail walk from Caersws to Harlech. Accommodation was a mixture of B&Bs and youth hostels. The trail took the walkers alongside rivers, reservoirs and beaches, in woodlands and up mountains.

April - the final section of the Cambrian Way trail, Barmouth to Conwy, was completed. The walk, which starts in Cardiff, is highly recommended for its combination of historical and cultural features, natural history, geography and excellent walking. Detailed maps, GPX tracks, points of interest, daily schedules, transport links etc. are available via the group contact.

August - there were two events.

A group had a four-night stay at Wasdale Head in Lake District. This is a stunning area with challenging climbs including Scafell Pike, England’s highest peak.

A day-away was enjoyed by an enthusiastic few who caught the 5.45am train from Letchworth to Settle for a 14-mile walk, returning home in the evening.

North to the Cape - A trek from Fort William to Cape Wrath (top of Scotland).

Autumn - five wild walkers completed the first stage from Fort William to Strathcarron which is considered the greatest wilderness walk in the UK.  The second stage will be in 2016.  We will be using Bothies, Bed and Breakfast and Bunk Houses, whatever is available.

August 

In August 8 'wild walkers' travelled to the Lake District using a similar format to a previous trip.

The group travelled up by train and local bus to their first night in the YHA at Buttermere, thereafter walking to the Black Sail Hut in Ennerdale for a two night stay, returning to

Buttermere for one more night before walking to the YHA at Ambleside. The weather was glorious and the views fantastic. 

September

Pembrokeshire Coastal path.  Travelling to Fishguard by train and with the barometer set for perfect walking weather, last month a group of five spent four days backpacking along the 

Pembrokeshire Coastal path to Solva. 

Accommodation was mainly youth hostels with the first night being spent at Pwll Deri where a meal - prepared prior to departure by the leader and worthy of a Michelin Star - was eaten 

whilst overlooking the dramatic coastline towards Strumble Head. 

Penultimate section from Alston to Garsdale.  Starting in the South Tyne valley, over Cross Fell and then up the Eden valley.  Final few miles in the headwaters of the river Ure.

A week away in Spain, for which we owe thanks to Nigel Carrick for the inspiration and organisation.

This is the next leg of our journey along Hadrian's Wall, and then down to Alston.  As you can see the weather was pretty good, but it was August.  Walked in 2013.

This is a selection from just one leg of our tracing Wainwright's "A Pennine Journey" from Seattle to Hadrian's Wall and back.  We did this section from 12th to 15th April 2013.

Day trip to the Yorkshire Dales, leaving Stevenage at 6.11 am, arriving Horton-in-Ribblesdale, walking 13 1/2 miles over Ingleborough, returning to Stevenage at 9.47pm.  The train cost £28 return.

A typical wild walkers outing.

Leave Letchworth Station at 6.23am.

Arrive Settle, via Leeds, 10.43am.

Walk 11 miles to Horton.

Stay at the Golden Lion

Day 2 13-mile walk to White Lion pub at Cray.

Day 3 Walk 10 miles to Bainbridge, then bus to Bedale. Bus to Northallerton, then train back, arriving at Stevenage station 8.20pm.

Nigel’s Report of our August Day Trip to Edale by Train

Thursday (25 August 2011) was one of those great days with sun, the odd cloud and a breeze all day with fantastic views for nearly all the walk – highly recommended.

We left  Stevenage 6.50am and arriving Hope 9.43am. Walk to Loss Hill. West to Ham Tor and along Rushup ridge. North to Brown Knoll and Kinder Low and then east to Golden Clough. Down to Edale for a meal and a drink. Sixteen miles but can be shortened. Back on 7.30pm train from Edale, arriving Stevenage at 10.45pm. No problems. Cost £23 with card. A Great day